Shiretoko, Hokkaido

Shiretoko is a northern perninsula of Hokkaido registered as a World Heritage Site for it’s rich and productive ecosystem, which is mostly off-limits during the winter unless you want to die of hypothermia and where you might get eaten by bears should you wander into the mostly untouched wilderness.

However, the town of Shiretoko offers some Hot Springs and views of the sea ice away from the crowds in Abashiri.

Getting there and where to stay?

During the winter the furthest town north is Utoru, which has a few hotels to stay at as well as a couple that have hot spring baths. Get there by express bus and use this article to figure out your schedule. There is no sea ice cruise here as due to the prevailing wind the sea ice gets jammed up against the harbor to the point that no ice breaker would get through it.

What to do in Utoru?

The main draw to the area is the exceptional peacefulness during the dusk and dawn periods. The Yuuhidai, an observation point where you can see the sunset over the sea ice (and light from the sunrise from behind you illuminate the sea ice), it a great place to go. Everywhere is within 10-15 minutes walk and tourists are a minimum so you can generally keep to yourself, although that does mean you are either eating at the hotel, or getting a snack at the only 7-Eleven in the town.

Another great spot to just enjoy the frozen harbor is the at the docking area for the cruise boat that operates when the sea ice is not around. There are two fairly impressive rock outcrops you have to walk past, which are eerie in the morning light (“When Japan” doesn’t recommend hiking up there in winter).

Activities around Utoro

Activities such as a night time snow walk (keyword is “Snow Walk” or “Snow Shoe Tour” or a trek over or under the sea ice (keyword is “Drift Ice Walk”) are popular. However English support for these is limited. Below are two sites that support some English tours, although during summer not all activities will be listed so check back closer to winter.

Veltra Snow Show Tour
Hokkaido Experience Drift Ice Tours

“When Japan” isn’t sure how tour sites work outside of Japan, however the two above are portals for a variety of agencies who sell tour packages. If you have Japanese language ability or know someone who does, there are way more options in Japanese if you search. Once you book via the portal the local agency will contact you by email to arrange the details and payment may well be in cash once you start your experience.