An old Samurai town in Oita Prefecture, Kyushu is as authentic an experience you can get of the old way of life in Japan. The town has gone to great lengths to cater to tourists and it an easy train ride from the hot spring town of Beppu.
The GoodThe Not-So Good
Full of authentic experienceNot to easy to access
Tries hard to please tourists

Oita Prefecture has tried increasingly hard to draw tourists over the recent years. The boom in tourists to Japan has also taken hold in Oita with a three fold increase over the last 10 years of foreign tourists. Kitsuki has tried hard to win some of that business due to its close proximity to Oita airport, which serves as an international airport from Korea (although there are very limited flights and the airport does not connect to the local train line, which is a major disadvantage).

Kitsuki itself is a fantastically preserved feudal town that has gone to great lengths to keep the atmosphere unspoiled by modern life (the usual spaghetti of overhead power lines are kept underground). The town is famous for its unique topography, preserved samurai residences, the smallest castle in Japan and a festival in May that recreates the traditional entrance into the town by feudal lords coming back from residence in the Capital Edo.

On your knees!

During the Edo period feudal lords were required to spend alternate years living in the capital Edo (the Sankin-Koutai system). This required them to travel back and forth every two years, with a huge entourage that parade through towns on the way. While traveling through towns the procession walked at a snails pace, reminding the common folk to “bend the knee” by shouting out “shita-ni” (literally: “down!”) at each step. In reality only the Shogun used such words; lesser feudal lords used phrases like “get out of the way”, and “stand aside!” (although when in sight of the lord himself, people still have to prostrate themselves until he passed).

The photo of the castle above was taken from this location, which was the residence of a well-known local politician with an observation spot in the gardens.

Access to Kitsuki

The castle itself is a good hour’s walk from the train station however as the whole purpose of the visit is to enjoy the preserved beauty of the samurai town, this hour is well worth taking. The town is a 30 minute bus ride from Oita airport or a 15 minute train ride from Beppu. It is highly recommended that while in Oita, both Beppu and Kitsuki are on your list of places to visit.

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