Mount Zao
| The Good | The Not-So Good |
| Stunning winter scenery | Quite out of the way |
| Skiing and hot springs? Yes, please. |
Mount Zao is a popular ski resort in Yamagata Prefecture that is also famous for its snow monsters and stunning scenery no matter the season.
Getting there is fairly simple, if quite a long journey. The Bullet Train will get you to Yamagata Station (not Zao Station!) and from there a bus (no booking available) will take you to the mountain base where all the hot springs and ski lifts are. The skiing (homepage) is apparently some of the best in Japan. Even during the summer the mountain is open for hiking and the rope-way operates all year round.
While you are in the area do visit Risshakuji Temple, which is simply magical during the winter snow.
Winter is of course where Mount Zao is at its best, with the famous snow monsters a top attraction even for non-skiers. To see the snow monsters in there full glory, hope for a clear day – “When Japan” went there when the mountain top was shrouded in cloud so we didn’t get to see much past 20m – although that was an experience in itself. In order not to get lost in the fog, a bell sounds continually to guide people back. There is also a light-up for part of the season so check the official homepage during that time for details.
Stay at a local hot springs hotel or one of the “pensions” at the foot of the mountain. Pensions are local family-run hostels that are often a cheap alternative to hotels when on a budget. Do expect only a bare minimum of service with shared bathrooms and limited dinner. You will know the pensions as are they will be the cheapest places in the area by far. There aren’t really any public hot springs around Mount Zao (that are open during winter) so you will have to stay at a hotel or pension that has one (there are plenty).
While “When Japan” didn’t have the perfect trip to Mount Zao, there are plenty of successful trips documented on Youtube so check those out.
